Liquid Horizon : Fly Fishing : Cape Town
Cuban Crusades
An expedition to the Jardines de la Reina Islands
Written by Graeme Field
Photography by Graeme Field and Jeremy Stewart
Before I even start, let me just tell you that this is one of the best destinations I have ever been fortunate enough to fly fish. I loved it – the fishery, the fish, the fishing, the variety, the operation, the guides, the boats the geography, the aesthetics – the place is just awesome. I can highly recommend it to anyone with a passion for saltwater fishing.
Overall we probably didn't catch as many or as big fish as we had hoped, but that didn't matter because this was an exploratory trip and we had a lot to learn. Besides, we'll be back next year. Had we had another week we would definitely have turned the tables more in our favour as we were just getting the hang of the place and the fishing when it was time to pack our bags and head for the swine flu capital of the world – Mexico. But that is a whole different story, so allow me to start at the beginning - at the end of a long flight from London when we finally touched down in communist Cuba...
For me, the city of Havana was a disappointment. In fact it was a big, grey, run down, stinky disappointment – and expensive, to boot. I think that being a photographer of sorts, I had a pre conceived idea that this was a truly photogenic city and I would spend my time drooling photographers drool as I lapped up and snapped up the myriad vibrant colours of the place and people. I had images of capturing the authentic "stuck in1950's" feel as the old gas guzzling American cars roared down cobbled streets adorned with communist slogans, the sidewalks lined with bona fide cello wielding Cuban musicians. Instead I wandered narrow potholed and decaying streets, carefully avoiding the puddles of raw sewage and the mangy, emaciated and leper-like dogs, feeling very much like I could contract some terminal tropical disease just by breathing the air. Occasionally I stopped, and before being accosted by yet another Cuban cigar seller, managed to point my camera and capture a splash of colour in an otherwise drab and somewhat distasteful city.
As you might have gathered, Havana wasn't my cup of tea, but admittedly I did only venture into certain parts of the old city, and as the author of this article I am allowed to indulge in a certain degree of poetic licence, so please don't take my personal opinion as fact. But either way, love it or hate it, the Big Stink was quickly forgotten two days later as our air-conditioned bus whipped us across a green and remarkably flat country, and six hours after our (very) early morning departure from our hotel, deposited us at Jucaro Port on the southern coast where we boarded the transfer boat for the final leg of our journey.
And it was at the end of that boat ride that lay the pot of gold we had flown half way across the world to find. Fifty miles off the coast of Cuba stretches an archipelago of islands that is one of the most dynamic and intricate saltwater fisheries I have seen. Three hours after leaving Jucaro, after passing countless inviting looking islands, we steered straight into a seemingly random gap in the mangroves and unexpectedly found ourselves in a remote but totally self-contained floating village. 
A couple of live-a-board boats, a fuelling station, diving station, a big floating mother ship and an elaborate jetty holding a number of Dolphin flats skiffs were all moored in a quaint little clearing in the mangroves which would be our base for the next week. The excitement was palpable as at last we pulled up behind our boat "Cabellones", and none of us could wait to finally shake off the travel lethargy and hit the flats running.
The Jardines De La Reina islands consists of an astoundingly diverse collection of islands, mangroves, flats, reefs, drop offs, lagoons and channels – a remarkable array of fishing terrain all rolled in one dynamic and intriguing fishery. The entire archipelago falls into a marine protected area and the single operator has exclusive rights, so whilst you are you are there you feel like the only fly fishermen on earth. No development, no people, no netting, no other boat traffic and no unscrupulous fishermen - this really is one special place. To add to that secluded feeling, there were only two other anglers on one of the other live-a-board yachts that week, so we really did have the place to ourselves. A huge bonus is the distinct absence of Americans and Americanism – no offence to those reading this article, but the sanctions and trade restrictions against Cuba have prevented the fishery and the country from being commercialised to a large degree, and that is reflected in the state of the fishery and the operation. However, it doesn't seem like this is going to last much longer, so I recommend that you get yourself there before a MacDonald's pops up on every corner and the fishery is under pressure from hoards of visiting anglers.
And what about the fishing you ask? The Jardines is primarily a tarpon fishery and although the fish are generally smaller as it is out of the direct path of the big migratory fish that come down past Florida each summer. There are plenty of fish in the 50 – 80lb range and they are surprisingly aggressive towards the fly. The biggest fish in the Jardines reach around 120lbs, but these are trophies and don't come easily. The tarpon are found in all sorts of terrain and we caught them everywhere from the "surf" along the reef edges, in the deep clear channels through the mangroves, just off the long sandy beaches and deep within the shallow peaty coloured lagoons. Numbers ranged from singles to schools of twenty fish. Ninety percent of the fishing is done by sight casting to visible fish, but we did do some blind casting into deep holes with good success. Just as tarpon are renowned for, they hit the fly incredibly hard and are difficult to land as they often throw the fly during their mad jumps. So expect to hook many but lose many too.
The bonefishing is also world-class, and there are hundreds of these grey ghosts roaming the flats – ranging from shallow water tailing fish, to small groups and singles in calf deep water and even huge schools for those who want to catch their quota in a short space of time. The fish average about 4 lbs, but can reach up to 15lbs – a trophy bone anywhere in the world. We didn't really spend much time hunting bonefish, preferring to look for tarpon, but did enjoy some excellent early morning fishing for big tailing fish. They aren't scared to pounce on the fly, but the razor sharp mangrove roots severed leaders and claimed many that we hooked. One fish in particular had our guide in hysterics – I spotted a fish tailing in water so shallow I thought it was on dry land, and just had to catch it. The only problem was that the flats were powder soft and I had no shoes on. To cut a long story short, some very determined and high speed barefoot stumbling around in mud up to my thighs attached to a fish that managed to wrap itself around every dead mangrove branch resulted in much mirth, a good lower body workout and finally a beautiful 4lb bone that I won't forget in a hurry!
In addition to the excellent bonefish opportunities, the "holy grail" of saltwater fly-fishing - Atlantic permit - are consistently found on the deeper flats, and many "grand slams" are achieved here each season. The permit average around 15 lbs, but there are plenty of bigger specimens and you have a real chance at a 30 – 40lb permit if you focus on these elusive fish. We spent a few hours poling after a few good permit but, bar one gentle take, didn't enjoy any success. But the techniques and flies are so different to our Indian Ocean fish, that a whole new approach is required. I'll definitely be more prepared next time.
An aspect of the fishery that I found particularly appealing was the huge variety of terrain available, and the accessibility of a number of different species in close proximity to each other. At any given time in the day, you are never further than a few minutes away from an incredibly long coral drop off into the deep ocean, and the fish roaming these depths are frightening! A few of the guys on our trip spent some time throwing over sized GT poppers on spinning gear and got completely sorted out by massive Cubera Snapper, cast after cast. And I'm talking broken rods, broken lines and broken spirit – by fish in the region of 100 – 150lbs. I threw caution to the wind and dropped a fly down there with the same result! But there are many other trevally and snapper species, as well as a variety of other predatory and reef fish that will readily take a fly, and this is one aspect of the fishery I intend to explore much more thoroughly on our next visit.
With all these different options available, it is quite possible to sight cast to tarpon in the mangroves for a few hours in the morning, then slip on some flats boots and stalk tailing bones for on the low tide, before heading to the reef edges to drop a fly off the deep walls for Cubera Snapper and Jack Crevalle, and finally ending the day quietly stalking big permit on the white sand flats as the tide pushes. Chances for quick opportunistic shots at Jack Crevalle and Mutton snapper periodically pop up while targeting other species, which adds excitement throughout the day.
Now you can have the best fishery, the best boats and the best operation, but if you don't have a good guide you are not going to be able to make the most of your precious time (and money). And this is where the Jardines excels itself. When it comes to local knowledge and finding the fish, the local Cuban guides are brilliant. Many of them have been there for 10 years or more, and know every inch of nearly two hundred kilometres of a mindboggling maze of mangrove channels and lagoons! They whip you at speed through the narrowest gaps, over impossible shallows, through full on mangrove tunnels and deliver you unerringly to the fish every time.
Our guide was one of those super efficient and nonsense guides that has been there, done that, and doesn't beat around the bush. He didn't waste our time, and expected us not to waste his. His attitude was entertaining and refreshing, and we knew we were in good hands. He had the confidence and experience to ensure we were always in the best place at the best time – we just had to trust him.
He continually amazed us with his specific knowledge and his understanding of where tarpon would be, and how they would behave. Tarpon have the annoying habit of cruising around really deep in the mangroves, in frustratingly inaccessible places. But do not fear - if they weren't where we needed them to be, our guide would simply call them closer. And it worked virtually every time. Tarpon are inquisitive by nature and whilst poling along as silently as possible is usually the best tactic for hunting tarpon, sometimes a loud noise was needed to bring them gliding out from mangrove roots to investigate. On many occasions we would find some tarpon deep in the gnarled mangrove roots, and he would position the boat, explain where they were going to appear and then proceed to stomp hard on the poling platform or start and rev the engine and on cue the tarpon would make their grand entrance – and it would be game on.
It was the same with all the species – the guides knew what fish would be where, and when they would be there. There was no holding back on distances covered or fuel used – they worked hard to make sure we maximised our fishing time and opportunities.
From all perspectives, this is a brilliant destination. The boats and skiffs are top class, the guides are experienced and know the fishery like the backs of their hands. The fishing is excellent, diverse and exciting and there is so much water to explore. Every very aspect of your trip is well thought out and nothing is too much hassle. The crew on the boats are incredibly friendly and helpful and go out of their way to look after you – the only area for improvement is on the food side of things – Cuba is not renowned for it's worldly cuisine. But it does the job and the free local rum makes up for any shortcomings!
Now don't miss this – we are going back next year so if you would like to come with us, drop me an email and join the party. My email is graeme@liquidhorizon.co.za - I look forward to hearing from you.